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NANJING, June 17, 2002 — There are no bicycles
at Don't Worry Lake, so I offered five yuan (60 cents) to one of the many people
selling cold drinks, noodles, and other comestibles in exchange for a brief ride
on his bicycle. He cheerfully obliged and off I went.
I am now, at 76 years, unsteady on a bicycle, but the jaunt went well. When I reached a slight incline in the tiled path,
I had to walk a few meters to the crest. Smooth riding thereafter. When I returned I enjoyed a cold drink and watched the man
whistle and chirp at the five pretty birds whose little wooden cages hung from a shade tree close by.
At four in the afternoon, with my interpreter, Li Mang, I
boarded a large, old rusty ferry that runs each hour from Nanjing to the
opposite shore of the Yangtze River, a common 15-minute commute for many workers
and students. Sitting in the hot sun I overheard a young girl speaking English.
Although at age 20 she had only studied English for a year (she told me), she was quite
fluent. I asked her name—Robin Fang—and learned she was a freshman at a
religious-sponsored teachers' college in Nanjing and was preparing to become an
English teacher. When I asked with what accent she spoke, she was bewildered. So
I told her that her accent was the same as mine, that is, American. I said she
must be learning the language from an American and she confirmed my guess. His
name is John Strong and from the worksheets she showed me as well as from her
own fluency, I knew he was a fine teacher.
I then had a strikingly good idea and
said, "We'd like to visit your home and have dinner with you!" She
smiled sweetly and agreed that this was a good idea and, in response to my
inquiry, she said her parents would be delighted. This would be the first time a
foreigner had visited her home.
At the far side of the Yangtze we disembarked
and, contrary to her proposal to walk the mile to her home, we took a taxi. The
Fang family of three lives in a pleasant, two-bedroom apartment on the third
floor of their building. Robin quickly ran to her bedroom where the air
conditioning is located, turned it on, and returned to the living room where we sat
under a large ceiling fan. She closed off all other rooms to concentrate the
cooling effect for our benefit. I later thought she should have included the
kitchen where her father would later sweat out the preparation of dinner.
Her father was still at work as was her mother who teaches kindergarten. The three
of us sat on a hard wooden bench—I soon requisitioned a cushion—and looked at
some dozens of photographs of Robin, her parents, and relatives. The album was
arranged chronologically from her birth to the present. Uncles, aunts,
cousins, and grandparents abound. Robin took great pride in her extended family
and the many pictures of herself, some of them alluring, even in slightly
provocative postures at the beach and elsewhere. Her enthusiasm was contagious.
Her parents arrived in succession and, after warm, Chinese greetings, the
father, kind and jovial, set to work in the hot little kitchen while the mother
went shopping. I made it clear that today was one of my 'vegetable' days—I am on a
special diet—and that I had a small appetite, but these remarks went unheeded. My only contribution to
the preparation of dinner was a bottle of dry, red Chinese wine which the hosts
disdained in favor of Qingdao beer. The dinner was excellent: rice, green
vegetables, mushrooms, soup, tofu, fresh tomatoes, tea and watermelon.
When one of the Fangs mentioned the well-known gleeful reaction of some Chinese to the
9-11 disaster at the World Trade Center, my interpreter assured the family that
I took no offense; that I was in Nanjing at the time and knew that, while many
offered sincere condolences, others, here and in Europe, thought America's
domination of the world required some kind of rebuke, if not so bloody and horrible a blow.
I am always surprised at how much fun it is to have a free flow
of ideas among such a mixed group: the parents speaking only Chinese, I speaking
only English, and my interpreter and Robin mediating expertly.
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